The amuse bouche involves smoked eel, a frozen cube of bitter lemon and duindoorn berries arrayed rather fetchingly in a martini glass. A wispy sigh of pleasure escapes me. This can only get better, and I am not wrong in my assessment. Our starter arrives. Goose liver with red beetroot (some cunningly smoked while others more innocuously roasted) drizzled with pure chocolate. I'm not a huge beet fan, but let me tell you, smoked beetroots... they're just boss!
The main course is poached halibut with slivers of scallops (a much reviled fish in ordinary kitchens that submits well to a masterly chef) with curried cauliflower puree, trompette mushrooms, and the oddly pretty looking green cacti flower that tastes of cauliflower, gently napped by an apple cider sauce. Divine and I restrain the urge to lick my plate.
The palate cleanser (or pre-dessert as it's referred to) makes me clap with glee... the glass is angled precariously, filled to the tilt by three distinct shades of green, the middle bit sparkling like jewels. A piece I would be happy to display in any suitable nook. Ice cold soup of pineapple with a lukewarm sabayon of tarragon. Reluctantly, I tip the glass towards my lips and smother the giggle that threatens to escape at the startling combination of textures and temperatures that invade my mouth. It's on the cutting edge of avant garde and I debate it's merit as a sculpture over those of a pre-dessert.
Now, the time for debate. Dessert is an eclectically named elastic of chocolate, and I ask if I can have something savory instead. Cheese is offered and rebutted instantly given the look of disappointment on my face. Is there anything particular I had in mind? Just starter like in temperament... I'm happy with any leftovers from the kitchen the chef is willing to put together. The legal dessert arrives and is exquisite. The strip of chocolate is touchingly elastic, and I almost wish I'd asked for it.... apparently the coconut and Mandarin blobs do it grave justice. JP kindly leaves a bit for me to savour at the end.
The chef sends out his rendition of a savory something to end the meal..... sweetbreads with truffle, pear, hazelnuts and celery. I smile winningly, suppressing my inward shudder at the imagery the word celery conjures up, and inhale the rich aroma. Mhmmmm. My palate is shocked with what seems to be celery heart. Not only does it not have its customary icky smell, the texture is firm and reminds me of palm hearts and pairs astonishingly beautifully with the veal innards. Bliss.
I end my repast with the last bite of elastic chocolate before giving in to a cup of orange pekoe and chocolate covered apple petit fours. Crème Crue might have an unexpected 'e', but the chef and his entourage know how to entertain with panache. My request to get the menu written down results in a crisp letter head being produced at the end of the meal (once everyone knew what I would be getting in lieu of dessert) and I quote:
Soepje van duindoornbesen, waterijs van bitterlemon schuim gerookte paling
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Terrine van ganzenlever met rode biet en pure chocolade
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Heilbotfilet en coquille met bloemkool en een saus van appelcider
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Predessert, ijskoud soepje van ananas met lauwwarme sabayon van dragon
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Elastiek van chocolade met kokos en drie bereindingen van mandarijn
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Gelakte kalfszwezerik met truffel, peer, hazelnoot en knolselderij
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Crème Crue, Haagweg 114, 2282 AG Rijswijk
T: 070 365 1080; www.cremecrue.nl
Chef: Patrick Kelder
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