What price memories
Returning to Heathrow this morning left me aggrieved only as a local can be when Iris refused to play, and the easy routine of the journey home from the airport, even as the folks at Heathrow Express mercilessly extort their pounds worth. Except this is now no longer home and I feel a moment of panic... Who will I talk to, share laughter with, where will I go in Singapore? This has been home for six years. I'm going miss the inevitable silliness and raucous if utterly ridiculous evenings of our Guha Velkar foursome, the x rated confidences of the blonde and the endless discussions about everything under the sun with the Dutchman...and all that's outside of work... At work, there's or was my team, the Friday funnies, endless treats from around the world... My recent travel mates to all places exotic...when will that happen again?? My thoughts swirl like the softly falling snow and the wistfulness grows.
I hate the cold, but I will miss this beauty..... I will miss many things I think....
The lion sleeps tonight...
Shark Dive
Unfortunately, there are dive schools that will feed the sharks to get them in by the dozens, and as much as I would like to be surrounded by bloody trails and feeding sharks, especially in such large numbers, it's not right to upset the natural balance. Our being there is intrusive enough and as I scour the net for more shark dives, my principles regretfully exclude the bulk of them on grounds of tampering. While the fascination with the great white continues unabated, and while my principles will allow chum in the water to attract a solitary hunter, I'm not sure the sight of a feeding frenzy by a solitary giant through the bars of a cage will be able to compare to the serenity of having them silently swish past and at you out in the open, suddenly dimmer as the sun fades behind a cloud, then clearer as the rays filter through the blue, sharing the same wide open range. Pure Magic.
P.S. - Winter in Carmen del Playa, Mexico is best for bull shark sightings - just don't encourage the dive schools that feed the sharks, unless you want the beach to be shut down when they do start feeding on unsuspecting swimmers... Reef Quest Divers @ The Blue Parrot - that's the way to go.
P.P.S. - Apparently bull sharks have more testostorone than any other animal on the planet including elephants and lions (my source happens to be Animal Planet, so depend on it!). I feel even cooler now ;-)
Car Nation?
So much for shock. Is it really surprising that they suck? Everyone has a car. You don't have to work for it, it is your birthright. The roads are wide, straight and very clearly marked, the cars along with their toanlly challenged, but cultured Satnav assistant practically drive themselves, so any moron can do it right? Well, any moron does. I have seen very few cars on the road that seemed to be manned by humans with a modicum of peripheral vision, acuity and the foresight to anticipate and maneuver adroitly. Yet, these very folk that drive like 4 year olds at the arcade cover thousands of miles, endlessly annoy Europeans when they do take to the roads across the pond with their stubborn clinging to the American way of driving - catch the middle lane and just stay on in, utterly oblivious to the European tradition of passing on the left and moving back to the right till you're ready to pass again.... Bloody Americans? Hey, they get more mileage than we do. It's not a passion or a convenience or even a luxury. It's just life. How many of us train for that????
Home of the Brave, Free & Retired
At the cinema, just out of Burlesque (both women belt it, the burlesque is more like burlesque and less like Vegas, Stanley Tucci is delicious and the young stud has a body to beg for, but otherwise, give it a skip), like every middle aged woman susceptible to incontinence, I deem it prudent to visit the ladies before our departure. I find myself at the end of a queue of white haired women. Hmmmm, maybe they let them out of their old age homes for a jaunt in the town on Sundays? As I wait my turn, I realise that my presence there has pulled the average age all the way down to 65!!
Hunger pangs strike me en route home and we stop at the causally termed Bob Evans... where there are 3 other sets of diners, naturally, all sporting various shades of grey and white atop their head. As we work our way though some indifferent food (this is what happens when you shun the fried stuff in an attempt to be healthy), the place starts to fill up, and the number of people with walking aids outnumber the people without. An elderly couple shuffles in with his mother, and I wonder if the restaurant has paramedics on standby in the parking lot (given the age of the clientele and the winningly themed choice of appetisers like fried zucchini, fried apple pie sticks, fried mozzarella, fried potato bombs....). The sound of cutlery and shuffling is interrupted by a geriatric demanding to see his favourite waitress, and insisting that he be seated next to some young girls. Deboo and I look at each other and shudder, but we are saved by his rather telling question, "ARE there any young girls in Florida?". Ummmm. Not in South West Florida there aren't...
What there is in South West Florida is an overabundance of hungrily growling, sexy Corvettes and macho rumbling Harleys cruising the streets. And old people. Yeah. You think about that. You do the math. I'im too busy wondering just why we're even bothering to eat healthy. The last thing this State needs is more people living to a ripe old age!
Ooook
For example, the compelling sign just as we turn off to head home, offering:-
Convenience Store
Bait & Tackle
Barber & Beauty
Ooook. I'm just wondering if it's the bait and tackle specialist that does the barber and beauty or the other way around. I mean, technically speaking, barber and beauty is nothing but sophisticated bait isn't it? Well, maybe not that sophisticated. I wonder how many customers they have that use all 3??
Then, there's the classic enticement of the used sales car fraternity.... DIRT CHEAP CARS! with S A L E propped up against 4 of the best used vehicles, which the next day loudly shouts A L E!
Of course, it's just me that wonders if Tire House is just a place where tired people go for a restorative session, till I see signs for Tire Kingdom and offers for a free Tire if you buy 3....
Or for that mater, the humongous sign stating WORLDS BIGGEST SHELL FACTORY.... that explains why they're so uniform on the beaches? No one I'm with deigns to shed light on my dilemma and I remain perturbed.
But the most outrageous thing that not only shifted my eyebrows but wrings out a gasp of horror (yes, of the shock! Horror! variety) as the TV announcers plummy voice over proudly proclaims "The only show where the winner gets cut!". What?!?! 12 brides to be, competing and clawing with each other over several episodes for the chance of a lifetime to win not only their dream wedding but their dream body. You cannot be serious. But apparently, they are and happy to tell the viewers what bits of their face and bodies they want fixed. It takes me another 4 seconds to shut my jaws together. BRIDOPLASTY! Starting tonight....
Diving: A dangerous sport
You will die.
Death.
Unconciousness.
Numbness.
Disorientation.
Exploding lungs.
Burst eardrums.
Painful bends.
Nausea.
Blah, blah...
The book thoughtful reminds you that the leading cause of injuries however (and this is statistically documented, I understand), is sunburn. Cocky divers that forget to lay on the sunblock. Fittingly glamorous. As an Indian with a rabid dislike of tan lines, I applaud the safety precaution. Do they mention trying not to bump yourself off the boat while getting kitted out? No, they remain criminally silent on an even more stealthy way to injure yourself while diving, even before you get to when you can fall prey to natures heat. Have you ever tried crawling into a wet suit? The only time I'm copiously shredding skin, bleeding and potential exposing bone, not in a misguided attempt to draw sharks into an photo shoot, or pose as bait for any other perceived killers of the deep, but getting clad for my adventure to be! Trying not to fall over yourself, trip on your fins or fall back with the weight of your tank that slips... the only serious cause of injury is the sweaty, frustrating and fattening experience of tugging on a wet suit.....
Be warned. Be careful. Be a seal.
America
Iron Woman,
I also wonder if I just have good instincts or do I just assume people will be what they say? My diving excursion was arranged over the phone from a number off the Internet, and we'd be taking a boat out 35 miles off shore for the dive.... sounds like a plan. Dive instructors wife shows up - a lovely lady who makes the trip even more fun. She's here so I wouldn't be the only girl on board and runs home as soon as we dock. Deboo wasn't just stretching her legs after the long drive to drop me off, she wanted to satisfy herself as to what kind of people I was dealing with. Apparently, two men and a boat are not words that bring comfort to all mothers. Well, what's to say the trio wouldn't have dumped my body in the deep blue after having their way with me? Too much Law & Order methinks. But it does make me wonder if I should even be entertaining these thoughts every time I sign up for something on the net, and venture out alone? But what's the point of 40 years worth of gut that tells you something feels off at the way someone talks or the things they say? Which also makes me think, I do not want to die underwater unless I'm eaten by a shark going straight for the jugular or skewered through the heart à la Crocodile Hunter. Sudden, succinct and spectacular. That's what I'm looking for.
By the way, watching a forklift carry a boat and set it down in the water is really cool!
The kitty litter isn't enough
Apparently, taking a cat for a walk has a detrimental effect on my sense of the absurd, not to mention drama (which has already been known to have dodgy moments now and again). While middle age has seen me shed a lot of my previously and preciously held reservations (parental jocularity in front of friends, wearing flopping hats as protection against the sun, wearing pink, being caught dead buying spangled socks in Primark, culottes....), I find myself anxiously insisting that I'm perfectly fine walking the dog. I would have happily walked a hippo or even the unattractive pig at the animal shelter. Any animal on a lead as a matter of fact, but even middle age doesn't not allow me to insouciantly stroll down the street pushing a neon blue, mesh covered pram wheeling a cat therein. It is simply not acceptable to one's image, even if said cat happens to be a most attractive black and green eyed creature with an aura of demoniacal intent and a distinct sense of superiority.
It is superfluous to say, Jackson surveys the world through slitted eyes befitting the evil and naturally demented, megalomaniac cat who took over the world, undeterred even by his rather pedestrian chariot. Wonder if I'd be more willing to shed my inhibitions to wheel him around if he had a Batmobile or should that be a Catmobile?? Nope. Cat wheeling is definitely not on the agenda anywhere in the foreseeable future. Talk about a different perspective to the term catwalk. Miaaaaooow!
The million billion chicken shoppe
We walk into the telltale smell. of unhealthy fast food. Demographically, we are incorrect. Wardrobally, I'm an outcast. Like tourists, we peer at the overhead pictures, hastening to tell the cheery, spotty boy at the cashiers that we were just scoping the joint. I'm scanning for the awe inspiring, mega squeal spicy chicken and almost miss Deboo's wail, "But everything is fried...!". She is very guillible, this friend of mine. She honestly believed this was going to be something special from the way the adolescents raved about it. I spy the breakfast menu - ta dah!! This was what would have netted the Chicken Shack a billion if they'd stayed open on Sundays apparently and unbidden the memory of a piercing Amercian accent replays in my head, "Their biscuits are to die for, they're a little sweet because they have honey in them...". Ye Gads, Kill me now and end it. I look for a photo of fries, but fail to spot any. Do see some seedy gaufrette type thingies though, but I mean seriously, what kind of a fast food place doesn't even have fries??!! My contemplations are interrupted by a seriously distressed Ms. Chaudhuri. "Do you really want to eat here?", "Erm, no, I was never going to...". "Then let's go!". A semi-dignified, definitely hasty retreat is beaten to the exit and we lunge out the door double upped with laughter. Clearly, the generation gap is alive and well. Chick-A-Flic is nothing but the worst kind purveyors of fried chicken. (I've never understood the attraction of sticking that between a bun...)
"We'll go somewhere nice for lunch", she declares, and herds me towards Panera, not an easy task, as we shriek our mirth and double over a couple times . We walk through the door to the soothing scent of freshly baked bread. This time, not only do we match the demographics present, but even my wardrobe looks fetching. The helpful lady proffers a menu to save me craning my neck and we settle for an Asian sesame salad and broccoli cheddar soup with a baguette. I meander towards a table, smiling at this guy who's working on his crochet. Civilisation smells good and the food tastes even better. We mull over our experiment with some degree of snorting, carefully controlled. At least now we know.... don't trust 21-25 year olds that sound like high school students (junior high!) on their food choices!!
Veni, Vidi, On y va....
Balancing Act
Still, some reckless synapse frizzles a signal that sends a, "Why not?" in response to a "Do you want to go for a ride?" and suddenly, I'm looking at Deboo wheel out Jaideep's bike with a dry mouth. Shit. Why on earth did I say yes? Gingerly, I take the bike and nearly unbalance it and myself. Not what could be referred to as an auspicious start. Deboo starts to look a tad worried and suggests it might be a good thing if she held on to me for a bit. I promptly concur. Perhaps I ought to have included my inability to start as well as stop, citing genetic inner ear related equilibrium issues. We wobble along unsteadily before my feet, calves and thighs start functioning as a single unit, and then Eureka! it did come back.... Crap. Now that we've got perpetual motion going, how the fuck do I stop?! Decidedly inelegantly, in a rush of cycle, woman and excited dog. Debrani consoles me with a, "Even I find it hard to turn in such a tight space". I survey the double car width road in front of me, and start to snigger. Yeah right. But she doesn't give up, "There's a roundabout at the end of the street where you can turn."
I grit my teeth and ignore the pleadings of my inner ear. The damn right pedal refuses to co-operate and my rude under breath mutterings has Deboo offering my encouragement. Miraculously, I manage to get rolling (in more than just a metaphorical sense) and suddenly, I find myself enjoying the wind rushing past my face. A mile with strategic roundabout assistance, I'm actually enjoying myself. I even manage to actually remember to softly squeeze the brakes and come to a stop in a relatively gentle fashion, without even a whiff of sailing over the handlebars. Deboo gauges I'm not likely to flip over into any of her neighbours garden and we take Polo along for his run without any untoward incidents from either dog or friend. A couple of more miles and I'm thinking perhaps I should give this another try tomorrow, over the question of its absolute necessity from my thighs. Given that I'm unlikely to have ever used these particular muscles before, I sympathise, but am chuffed by the unexpected enjoyment of the ride (not to mention success tinted only by minor wobbles).
It's ironic, but the last time I actually cycled was a good 15-20 years ago and that too at the hands of the relentless woman by my side. Must be karma. Or Debrani.
Merry Thanksgiving?
Ingredients
Thanksgiving weekend 2010, USA
1 little 'once upon a time' middle class Maharashtrian lady doctor with receding hairline
1 really little 'once upon a time' middle class Maharashtrian husband of said lady
1 cross faced Tamillian lady disguised as best friend of above lady doctor
1 broadly accented, wine purveying doctor husband of Tamillian persuasion attached to cross lady, prone to calling the quarterback "yidiyot!"
1 very quiet and still lovely non-matriarch type parent of cross looking lady
1 very pretty and equally tiny Amrikan graduating daughter of Maharashtrian couple
1 small, sweet, very spoiled and killed by an absurdly high pitched piercing tone Amrikan daughter half way through dentistry school daughter of Tamillian couple
1 dudey, bearded, accented, MBA'd, med school to be completed son of Tamillian couple with freakishly small feet
1 pie baking, white American girlfriend who for some strange reason isn't thanking her givings with her family
2 well travelled, divorced, bemused and clearly invited out of pity, sticking out like sore thumbs Bengali schoolmates
1 turkey that surprised the hostess by being delivered whole and not sliced (later rectified by surgeon hopeful) accompanied by mashed potatoes, cranberries, corn on the cob, stuffing and gravy from Publix
1 green bean casserole
1 cabbage type salad tinted by turmeric
1 nos. items resembling poha which could have been rice
1 mixed vegetables with aspirations of being grilled
Bread
6 desserts of non chocolate origins - apple pie, pecan pie, pumpkin pie, apple/cherry cobbler, mango mousse (of the fake variety), cherry pie
Method
Randomly throw together all the ingredients along with American football, dinner split between large dining table to seat those aged 40 and well below and kitchen table for those 50 and above. Blithely add some utterly indiscriminate raving about ChickFlic? Chicshack? FlicChick? and their amazing, out of this world and they'd make a million, nay a billion extra each year if they just stayed open on Sundays with their spicy chicken sandwiches, fried chicken and other assorted chicken concoctions that bring on squealing fit for a 12 year old girl at the sight of Menudo by all at formal dining table, bar the bemused Bengali women. Throw in some fevered calculation about how many years 1,000 Sundays would be (and a range of conclusions from 20 to 200 years), temper with some of the latest gossip that shock the children about known neighbourhood couple splitting and let simmer. To spice it up, have haphazard photos taken by charmingly barking Tamillian doctor, "Don't turn, don't turn... tchah! you turned" and add whipped cream (light) to all the desserts. Wonder to yourself how any of these children could be out of their teens (but save that for a raucous discussion in the car on the way home). Thank everyone and take home the leftover green been casserole.
Without a doubt, the oddest dinner party of the thanksgiving variety I've been to. Perhaps it is the punkin' pie that makes the 22-25 year olds chatter, squeal and ruminate with great excitement like 15 year olds about all this inconsequential and good old fashioned hospitality and pity that saw us there.
Clearly, the calorie content makes this a 'must be careful while consuming this during cynical (?) middle age years'. Till next Thanksgiving........
Ooops I did it again...
I swear, I will not make another booking this year. Hell, I won't make one for the next quarter. The end of the financial year. Whatever....!!!
One Night Stand
I awake to the sun already high overhead and alone in bed. I see him when I go for lunch, but he walks by me like he can't see me. I'm disappointed, but not surprised. I'm a big girl, right. But then, he's back again the next night and the night after, in my bed, on the sofa, adoring me..... Every night since then, only to leave before the sun comes up, when I cease to exist for him, as potent as water off a duck's back. Tonight is no different, and this time, I'm the one that walks away, knowing what the morning will bring. But I also know, that tomorrow and every other night, he'll be back with the darkness....
Friends who cook...
Deboo's Fake Mango Mousse
Ingredients
Gelatin (unflavoured) - 28gm x 3
Mango pulp – 3 cups
Cream cheese – 225 gm
Sour cream – 3 cups (if you can't find sour cream, use ½ yoghurt + ½ cream)
Sugar – 1 cup
Boiling water – 3 cups
Method
Mix gelatine, sugar and boiling water together. Add the cream cheese and blend till frothy. Add in the sour cream and blend once. Then add the mango pulp and blend again till its a smooth pouring consistency. Pour into a pretty bowl and refrigerate for 12 hours and ta-dah, your fake mango mousse is ready to serve.
One tequila, two tequila,
Well, not quite, but a couple of excellent maragritas, or four, will make you very merry and even a tad loquacious! Add to that some deep cheese covered fries with jalapenos, bacon bits and ranch dressing and honey chipotle baby back ribs, and finesse that with chocolate fudge brownies with ice cream and you've got a nicely developing coronary on the way....
Loquacious I might be, but cunningly equilibriated.... certainly not!
Beaches
Jackson's jacuzzi
Still, it is immensely rewarding to watch a supercilious creature trying to act nonchalant, valiantly pretending he's not really an ass in disguise.
How does one describe the indescribable? Pretend to be able to capture in words the experience, the sensations, the frisson of exhilaration raising the hairs on your nape at the sudden sighting of a big cat. Or even a little one. It's something you have to feel for yourself, because no one else can even to begin to paint a picture. They might say a 1,000 words, but still not enough to capture the essence of the land, the wonder of nature.
Guess I'd better get back at yet another attempt at the impossible....
Alone
Raindrops on roses...
I hate roses, but psychotic catlets that pounce on unsuspecting inanimate objects... that's a different story. Add to that a litter of 7 week old puppies, and the teeniest, scruffiest of the fur balls in my hands, bestowing wet kisses all over my face... and yet again, I wish I had a tail and could have a litter of feline/canine babies instead of the human variety. Hmmmmm. Freud would have a field day with this. But the joy at watching a kitten do it's special mad, pouncing leap and look startled at the end of it is just priceless. As is the unexpected sighting of dolphins in the Bay, and the indescribable thrill of having one of them swim up right next to you, just a couple of feet away.... a perfect bottle nosed dolphin, so close to the surface, you can see it's smiley face, it's blowhole and sleek skin before suddenly with a swish and a splash, she's turned and run away...! I don't think I've ever seen a wild dolphin up so close and it's different when you're on a boat and they're swimming along side. This one literally came up to us as we stood on the edge, a quick teasing but perfect glimpse before disappearing... pure magic.
I believe I had it right when I was 5. A dog, dolphin and tiger. What every child needs....
Florida pace
The sun's personality is lightened by a steady breeze and instead of balmy, my eyelids blink faster in an attempt to stay awake in the cozy silence, broken only by the splashing fish and the rustling of lizards in the grass. A plaintive meow makes me smile and I inhale a black cat before being accosted by a wet tongue. Bliss.
Keeping the Faith?
While it might be an universal truth that men are fundamentally stupid, it is also an indisputable fact that women are genetically more stupid than their male counterparts when it comes to getting involved with a married man.
Men have no trouble at all grasping the simple concept. If a man is married, he will stay that way. He has no intention of leaving his wife, and it's only fun. Women, know this. They say it. But for some obscure reason, they don't really believe it. They always think they're somehow going to be different. That they're not like every other foolish woman that's said the same thing. It doesn't matter what race, financial background, IQ level, hair colour, education a woman has or aspires to, she will believe that somehow she is special. Different.
I find myself wondering about Cinderella. What did happen to her after the ball? Happily ever after. Every woman, intelligent or otherwise knows that it's a fairy tale. So why does she still believe in Prince Charming? Or that she'll be more than just some chick he's banging on the side? He's never going to leave her, it'll always hurt you when you see them together, you will fall in love with him, and he won't understand why you're making such a big fuss. Your girlfriends will sympathise and tell you he's scum. Your male friends will roll their eyes and say I'm sorry, but you knew he was married.. what did you expect?
Monroe got passed around, Hepburn stayed single, Malini got to be wife no. 2, Desai got dumped and we cried for a broken heart. Well, if nothing else, Cinders did get some spiffy shoes, and Snow White...... well, let's just say she was busy all week... no wonder Prince Charming only showed up when she was in a coma!
Security Alert!
Hello, I'm Rizwan and I'm from AA security. How's your day been so far?
You don't want to know.
Well, it's gonna get much worse.
Oh no, it can't possibly get any worse..
Trust me. It will.
With that winning sales spiel, the boy reels of his piece about security check and the usual how many bags, did you pack them, have they been in your possession and rifles through my passport.
Oh...!
Stop it!
No really...
STOP IT!
Hey Ahmed, take a look at this... how old do you think she is?
Ahmed strolls over and the boys have a snickering lads moment.
When was this taken?
Tchah!
Seriously, you're so much prettier in real life.
I can't help but grin at his obvious throw away line. What can I say, I'm easy.
So you live here.
Yep.
Do you have any ID?
Erm, you're looking at my passport?
No, no. Proof of residence like a drivers license?
Nope.
Where do you work?
Cushman & Wakefield.
Do you have a business card?
Are you kidding me? I'm going on holiday!
Well, yeah, but you never know..
Why on earth would I carry my business cards on a holiday?? Siigh. Let me check.
Naturally, I have none. But a-ha. I proffer my C&W access card.
Ok, that's fine.
Phew. Thank God for that since I'm now homeless and unemployed in the UK.
Did you pack the bag yourself?
Yessss.
Where?
At home.
When?
Last night.
Where do you live?
Maida Vale.
Nice!
You're going to make me miss my flight!
Oh you'll make it... trust me.
Is there anything in your bag that needs batteries?
Hmmmm, yes.
What?
Well, apart from my laptop, I have the camera and my vibrator.
Boy looks at me.
I look back. You asked.
He hangs his head.
Ook, you can go. I want you to walk straight ahead in that direction and don't turn back. don't you even think of looking back after what you've said to me!
I'll try and resist...
Doctor Doctor!
The sight of two bottles seems to be a signal to celebrate and the previous bottle is brought out from hiding before the ties come off, and ceremoniously poured out and as she who is bringer of plentiful booze is giving the first taste, even as Vinod looks positively orgasmic as he sniffs it. Jan looks on like an expectant father, and I grin and salute them. Hmmmm, it smells distinctly medicinal and my first sip encourages a vitriolic coughing fit. Dammit to hell and back! Those bloody Benedictine monks! Purveyors of pure alcohol. It's utterly disgusting! I shudder as I think this is the 15 herb mix and not the 'vile' version. I accuse them of just being pathetic medical practitioners. This is nothing better than home made dispensary brew, to be served in little plastic cups as a cure all! Vinod obliges me by gargling with it. They grin and nod and keep smiling through sniff and sip. Manna it seems. Psychos methinks.
Jan is more than happy to ease my pain, although he's a bit shocked that I really don't wish to continue with this fullsome libation and tells me how they acquired it from a gypsy market. In return, I regale him with the scintillating dialogue shared by the Hungarian and yours truly, "Do you not know where that is?" "Do I look like a tourist?" Damn, she's good.
Vinod returns sparkly clean and as excited as a 6 year old blonde with her new barbie and helps himself to another glass. Clearly we're celebrating. He skips off to organise dinner and threatens the still tie'd Jan with cold pizza while trying to educate me on the beneficial effects of Gyógtnövénylikór and demands to know the correct way to say it. We call Sarolta, and cunningly her phone diverts to voicemail and a rather rude message saying "I'm unable to take your call but don't leave me a voicemail, better send me an email". Vinod promptly goes onto leave a lengthy and somewhat obscure message thanking her and parading his inability to say Gyógtnövénylikór with any kind of grace.
It's gonna be a fun weekend!
Flying 2010
This year has seen multiple trips to Amsterdam and Geneva, unnecessary ones to Sharm and Cairo, inevitable ones to Bombay (and some better left undone!), Zurich/Interlaken, Vegas (via Philly and Atlanta!), Budapest, Copenhagen, Nordborg, Nairobi (and Laikipia/Masai Mara), Rotterdam and then Fort Myers via Miami. Heathrow feels like home.
Given how much I hate flying and I won't even get into packing/unpacking, I clearly need to work on a better strategy for my life and travels. Still, the early arrival to Budapest with the Capt's announcement, "I'm pleased to say we are a full 10 min. ahead of schedule. Make sure you use it well" to another flight (coincidentally to Budapest again), which saw the brunt of some nasty weather and an excessively witty Capt, who's last rejoinder was a splendid, "It's going to be a bumpier ride than usual and if any of you has a problem with that, come see me after the flight", to the CityAir propeller engined aircraft that was the worst take off in my history of flying - thought we were going to be rattled into the sea before our wheels could remove themselves from the tarmac, where flawless service offered us not just drinks but full on snacks and sandwiches for a 40 minute flight, and even had a safety card featuring my phone, the classic Nokia 6310 (quite the conversation starter incidentally wherever I go to top up on prepaid options!)
While I don't believe in the superstition that you will spend the rest of the year doing whatever you were on New Year's, this year, I plan to be at home... well, till the 1st of Jan 2011!
Immigration Interrogation
Where are you going?
London.
Where do you live?
London.
Why were you in Rotterdam?
For lunch.
Now I not only have the young, dashingly uniformed immigration officer holding my passport's attention, I have the one next door's as well and I am cross examined with far greater interest that is usually warranted on such an occasion.
For lunch?
Yes.
For business?
Well, sort of.
Just for lunch?
Yes.
They are far too refined for a nudge nudge wink wink....
In a restaurant? (This from officer not holding my passport).
Yesss.
Where?
Uhmmmm... how do you say it?! Ricewig?
Ah, in Rijswijk
That's the place.
What is it called?
Creme Crue.
With the big boss? (my chappie with understanding nod)
Sure (why the hell not?).
Miraculously, my smirk is really tiny.
Big celebration?
Clearly.
You travel a lot. (He who holds passport and flicks through the pages with far greater focus).
Yes.
Was it a good lunch?
It was excellent.
Now you go home?
Yes.
The boys have now run out of questions, and reluctantly, he stamps it and they both graciously bid me a good journey.
If it's Thursday, it must be Rotterdam...
The amuse bouche involves smoked eel, a frozen cube of bitter lemon and duindoorn berries arrayed rather fetchingly in a martini glass. A wispy sigh of pleasure escapes me. This can only get better, and I am not wrong in my assessment. Our starter arrives. Goose liver with red beetroot (some cunningly smoked while others more innocuously roasted) drizzled with pure chocolate. I'm not a huge beet fan, but let me tell you, smoked beetroots... they're just boss!
The main course is poached halibut with slivers of scallops (a much reviled fish in ordinary kitchens that submits well to a masterly chef) with curried cauliflower puree, trompette mushrooms, and the oddly pretty looking green cacti flower that tastes of cauliflower, gently napped by an apple cider sauce. Divine and I restrain the urge to lick my plate.
The palate cleanser (or pre-dessert as it's referred to) makes me clap with glee... the glass is angled precariously, filled to the tilt by three distinct shades of green, the middle bit sparkling like jewels. A piece I would be happy to display in any suitable nook. Ice cold soup of pineapple with a lukewarm sabayon of tarragon. Reluctantly, I tip the glass towards my lips and smother the giggle that threatens to escape at the startling combination of textures and temperatures that invade my mouth. It's on the cutting edge of avant garde and I debate it's merit as a sculpture over those of a pre-dessert.
Now, the time for debate. Dessert is an eclectically named elastic of chocolate, and I ask if I can have something savory instead. Cheese is offered and rebutted instantly given the look of disappointment on my face. Is there anything particular I had in mind? Just starter like in temperament... I'm happy with any leftovers from the kitchen the chef is willing to put together. The legal dessert arrives and is exquisite. The strip of chocolate is touchingly elastic, and I almost wish I'd asked for it.... apparently the coconut and Mandarin blobs do it grave justice. JP kindly leaves a bit for me to savour at the end.
The chef sends out his rendition of a savory something to end the meal..... sweetbreads with truffle, pear, hazelnuts and celery. I smile winningly, suppressing my inward shudder at the imagery the word celery conjures up, and inhale the rich aroma. Mhmmmm. My palate is shocked with what seems to be celery heart. Not only does it not have its customary icky smell, the texture is firm and reminds me of palm hearts and pairs astonishingly beautifully with the veal innards. Bliss.
I end my repast with the last bite of elastic chocolate before giving in to a cup of orange pekoe and chocolate covered apple petit fours. Crème Crue might have an unexpected 'e', but the chef and his entourage know how to entertain with panache. My request to get the menu written down results in a crisp letter head being produced at the end of the meal (once everyone knew what I would be getting in lieu of dessert) and I quote:
Panorama
It's the aptly entitled Panorama that's the surprise, and without much ado, we head straight for the piece de resistance. I walk into the room and am gobsmacked. I mean, quite literally, my gob is well and truly smacked and falls open in awe and wonderment. I'm standing on a shaded deck atop a sand dune. A sand dune littered with anchors, fishing nets, lost boot as dunes are wont to be. A 360 degree turn absorbs the city behind us and the open sea in front of us. Scheveningen in 1881. I continue to gape as I rotate again. Then once more for good measure, this time more slowly, taking in the details of the church spire in the distance, the woman hanging up her washing outside her home, the beached fishing boats, the rolling waves, the horizon receding into the distance. I swear, I can smell the sea, hear it. The shrieking gulls give way to commentary in Dutch. Unsurprisingly, my body is drawn seaward, and I leave the town behind me as I savour the open breeze and endless horizon. The experience is surreal. The painting magnificent. The hidden glass dome that sits astride the roof allows in natural light, which brings this behemoth to life. Everyday, it's a different day at the beach, given the season and the weather. It's uncanny, but this 14 m tall, 120 m canvass wrapped around you at a distance of 14 m away, makes you feel like you're standing outside, surveying life in the 1880's.
Hendrik Willem Mesdag painted it with assistance from his wife Sientje Mesdag-van Houten and 4 other painters in 4 months. How, I do not know. It's alive and makes you want to sit down by the seaside, have a drink and get philosophical about life as one does when faced with nature in her purest form. The crying gulls meld into the sound of the waves as the English commentary tells me that the panorama was sketched on a glass cylinder that was then lit from within and this is what was used to trace the massive pieces of canvas surrounding us. Ingenious, but just imagining them actually executing the piece leaves me breathless. I wish I could have been a fly on the wall, to watch them at work, the sketch thrown all around, bits of paint filled in, perspectives checked and double checked. It's a masterpiece. I have seen photographic panoramas before and been somewhat impressed, but this just takes your breath away. It has the depth and dimension you can only get from paint and canvass and the texture makes it more gritty, more real. You forget it's bitterly cold and wet outside and wallow in the bracing air of the sea instead, the pace slower, more relaxed as you unwind and let nature soothe you. Your thoughts wafting around your head as you contemplate the horizon in the far distance.
It's startling when one of the guides steps over the rail to walk the 14 m to the canvas, destroying the illusion... it makes you cross to have the magic vanish, but oddly enough, a few minutes later as your gazing out, the artists mastery over depth and perspective sweeps over you and the beach stretches for miles ahead, the waves rolling into the far distance. It's truly uncanny how they manage to create such a strong sense of the real in such a confined area, munificent size of the painting notwithstanding. True to the art form, the top and bottom of the paintings are hidden to perpetuate the illusion of not having any boundaries
I've never really thought of Rotterdam as place to have on my list to visit... but I stand corrected. Eventually, I let JP tear me away so we can go for lunch (the original plan!), and make a mental note to visit in the summer to do a repeat... different light, different ingredients (lunch...!) and a quick abseil down the tower. This city rocks! Our sneaky side door entrance goes unnoticed and we claim our car with panache, sans payment. Such lovely people, these Dutch....
